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Seawater Strainer

Before

Since we decided to stay on this winter, there is lot to be done before it gets cold. The strainer catches debris before water enters the engine heat exchanger and this change will make it easier to pump antifreeze into the system. Simply shut the sea-cock (water valve), attach a garden hose to the new fitting, put the other end in a bucket of antifreeze and, start the engine. 

This also included cleaning the strainer and replacing the water hose. We also rerouted the hose to the starboard side to simplify some of the clutter of the hoses and wire routed on the port side of the engine.

Of course, as always, one thing leads to another. We found that the seacock does not close completely. This is disturbing. It is possible to change the valve on the water. However, if it doesn't go well, then a manageable problem becomes much bigger. 

The through-hull fitting and the ball-valve appear to be original. That makes them about 22 years old, and separating the ball-valve will not be easy. Add to that the bonding (electrical grounding) is questionable and the bronze alloy used is unknown. The through-hull could just snap off.

So, considering that every through-hull on this boat does not meet current standards, plans will be made to replace all. The survey should have pointed this out.


AfterInstalled



The floor in front of the engine was never finished properly. The edge of the floor laminate (1/2" ply  with 1/4" teak and holly strips) hung over the beam slightly. Because the edge was exposed to water, the ply had delaminated. Trimming this off cleaned up its look and provided a little extra access under the engine. Now the edge of the wood can be painted to protect it.
  


  
More on the Thru-Hull Valves. This is the inlet for the galley saltwater foot pump. It had a 90 degree elbow on top. It doesn't leak when closed but the ball is pitted badly. 


 
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